Comments on: Stoked, Wave Riding Ramblings from a day in the water

By: Dave Doolin

Dave Doolin — Tue, 09 Feb 2010 04:20:28 +0000

Heh… I love it up here in San Fran. It’s easy to find empty waves if you’re willing to walk a little bit.

I recall a day a few years ago… dry hair paddle out at OB… 9′ to 11′… offshore… took the 7/9 Aleutian Juice out… coming in deep, so deep, getting sucked way up the face, the wind supporting the nose… then popup! And straight down the face into a tight bottom turn… riding the rail right back up the face… reaching out… a wall of blue water lipping right over head… then closing right over me.

Or the time down at Sloat, made the bottom turn and tried to get back over the top. No dice. Completely tubed 4 feet over my head. Washarama!

Yeah man.

‘Course, right now I couldn’t run around the block.

Perfect… iTunes just cycled into some Iz!
Dave Doolin´s last blog ..How Moderating Comments On Your Blog Destroys Conversation

By: Brian Cox

Brian Cox — Mon, 08 Feb 2010 20:44:19 +0000

This sounds like paradise, you explained it perfectly. I miss california so much and i’ve never even lived there, I wish I could live the surfing dream but alas I’ll have to live through your blog like Marc is. Happy Surfing
Brian Cox´s last blog ..Invictus

By: Henri @ Wake Up Cloud

Henri @ Wake Up Cloud — Sun, 07 Feb 2010 18:57:39 +0000

I’ve NEVER tried surfing, because there are no waves anywhere where I’ve lived. Maybe sometime. I do agree that some memories are awesome and seem to get etched with a torch into your brain.

Sometimes they don’t get imprinted right away but become apparent and pop up years later. Interesting how that works
Henri @ Wake Up Cloud´s last blog ..How to Use Article Marketing to Increase Your Blog Subscribers

By: Ian

Ian — Sat, 06 Feb 2010 05:16:00 +0000

It’s good to find your drug. That one thing that inspires you and drives you on.

Yeah, when I picture surfer girls I’m thinking along the lines of Blue Crush and not off the coast of Cornwall during a miserable and wet January weekend!
Ian´s last blog ..The Law of The Jungle AKA How to Take Less Crap

By: Marc Winitz

Marc Winitz — Sat, 06 Feb 2010 00:17:30 +0000

Yeah, the full suit with hood and booties thing isn’t happening. I’ll have to live vicariously through your blog for now…
Marc Winitz´s last blog ..Be Hard On Yourself – The Zen of “How”

By: Srinivas Rao

Srinivas Rao — Fri, 05 Feb 2010 21:47:17 +0000

Ian: It’s really been the thing has been my driving force. I remember hearing in a movie once Kelly Slater describing the fact that a wave has traveled for thousands of miles so there is a tremendous amount of energy behind that. Whatever it is, I love it, live for it, and it’s my drug. The surfer girl is even nicer when you live in a place where you don’t have to wear wetsuits all the time. That is why I plan to head back to Brazil soon : )

By: Ian

Ian — Fri, 05 Feb 2010 21:42:09 +0000

This is fantastic, Srinivas.

I’ve tried surfing a few times but living so far from a beach it was never something I could keep up, but I definitely relate to the feeling of freedom and openness you are describing while out on a wave.

Oh, and that dark haired surfer girl doesn’t sound too bad either.
Ian´s last blog ..The Law of The Jungle AKA How to Take Less Crap

By: Srinivas Rao

Srinivas Rao — Fri, 05 Feb 2010 20:22:52 +0000

@Marc: Didn’t realize you were a surfer. That’s awesome. I know what you mean about not surfing up there. I used to live there. I never once got in the water. It’s ridiculous because you have to wear so much gear and you still freeze your balls off.

By: Marc Winitz

Marc Winitz — Fri, 05 Feb 2010 18:51:07 +0000

I needed this, having moved up to the Bay Area last year, it’s too cold to surf up here. I miss the warmth of Southern California, even in Winter. Totally remember dropping in on my first wave caught ever at Swami’s in Encinitas. A good memory so thanks.//Marc
Marc Winitz´s last blog ..Be Hard On Yourself – The Zen of “How”